Thursday 21 March 2019

Ruskin, Mr Tayto and Waldorf Astor

So the violets are out - I don't know why they're considered to be shy, as the ones in London always seem bright and Suffragette-like.  I love to see them.  


I've had my head down trying to get all the Durrell material into shape, and still a few more interviews to go. I've run into a significant problem but I think I'm dealing with it, but at least it gives me something to think about rather than Brexit. (I'm trying not to comment too much on that, even though it's hard to ignore the whole pathetic mess.)

The pictures below show geological specimens belonging to the great Victorian artist John Ruskin.  We went to an exhibition about him at Two Temple Place,  (more about this interesting London house in a moment...)  Ruskin had the most extraordinary upbringing. As the only child of elderly parents, he was not allowed to attend school or have playmates, and even toys were in very short supply.  As I recall from reading his biography several years ago, he didn't mind too much, although his childhood sounded like a nightmare to me.  But, sitting with his elderly parents with nothing to do, seemingly encouraged him to develop his observational skills.  He found it so interesting and rewarding that he built his whole life around the visual arts. 

I admire Ruskin for his passion and commitment to beauty, nature and art.  He believed totally that these could benefit rich and poor alike, and worked tirelessly to spread this message as widely as he could. Looking around the exhibition I felt we could really do with another Ruskin these days to remind us to simply look at the inherent beauties to be found in nature.   

My favourite of the specimens here has to be the glittering multi coloured opal, the bottom one of the three. I've always been told it's unlucky. Have you ever heard this?  I hope it's not true. 






Two Temple Place is a magnificent house near the Inns of Court in London, built for Mr. William Waldorf Astor.  It's now owned by a foundation called the Bulldog Trust, which is devoted to promoting culture and philanthropy.  I have never heard of the Bulldog Trust, and their website is very scrappy, but they do a fine job of keeping up the house and always put on the most gorgeous exhibitions during the winter, which is when the house is open to the public. 


So this is what the house looks like from the outside. No garden, but note the golden weather vane.  By Astor or Waldorf standards, I suppose it is just a cottage, but how magnificent it seems to me!  I love the main staircase, with its leaded coloured glass ceiling... 


...and the long gallery, with a huge stained glass window at either end.  Rare woods are used all around the house in panelling, flooring and carving. Entering this room is like entering a stage set; my pictures can't quite convey the size and space and light.  



You could spend half an hour looking at a single door. If you were Ruskin, you probably would. In fact, everything in the house repays close examination and was built (and later restored, after wartime bomb damage) with no expense spared.  I should say you might not like the house if you are a minimalist at heart, but even so, you would probably appreciate it. 


Yesterday, we met old friends in another interesting building: the Garden Museum, near the very ancient Lambeth Palace.  The museum is shown below - it's in the deconsecrated church on the right.  It is a nice spot, and the gardens outside are full of spring flowers, but yesterday was so dim and rainy that I didn't take many photos.


The palace and church stand on the banks of the River Thames right within sight of our shambolic Parliament.  We and our good friends carefully avoided looking at it, or discussing what might be going on within.  

Instead, we looked at all the terrific objects in the museum, which tells the story of English gardening. I was particularly taken with this huge three dimensional artwork created from mirrors and dried flowers. T. took the photo, and it gives a better idea of what it is like than anything I took. 


If you look at the website you'll see that this museum runs some imaginative and interesting exhibitions. It's slightly off the beaten track, or always seems that way to me, but it really is worth a visit.   In the old churchyard is the super but very odd tomb of the Tradescants, the famous plant collecting family who rose to fame in the 17th century.  I have no idea why the tomb has a hydra on it, and nor, seemingly, has "Flickering Lamps" the blog I'm linking to above, which has a more detailed description of the tomb. 


AND.... my Irish passport finally arrived!  I'm delighted to have the Irish part of me acknowledged, and when I get a little bit clear, in May, I plan a "Becoming Irish" party. 

My friend Marjorie, in Chicago, bought me some St. Patrick's Day merchandise and mailed it over. Chicago's proud of its Irish heritage and I'm delighted at this selection of stuff.  So what to eat at this party?  Irish family members suggest bacon, sausages and potatoes, and ye-e-e-es, I suppose so.   Okay, Tayto potato crisps. Guinness.  But I'm not crazy on those things myself, so could anyone reading this suggest any more unusual Irish recipes?  We have had really terrific food in Belfast and West Cork not too long ago. I just can't remember what it was. ..



Talking of Tayto crisps, the twins' school friend was saying how her family was going off to Legoland. Cue for two envious twin faces. Girl twin said bravely, "Well, we're going to Potato Land!"  Actually she meant Tayto Park, which their other grandparents have promised them at some stage. Apparently it has Ireland's only roller coaster, but that's just hearsay on my part, I wouldn't go on a roller coaster again after I wrenched my neck in Disney's Space Mountain.  After the worst theme park experience of my life in Legoland Windsor (click the link) I would not be envious of anyone going there, either; but I like the cheerful and unassuming Mr. Tayto and I have a feeling I'd like Tayto Park if I ever go.

 

The magnolias are out and on a sunny afternoon they make a good show. This is one of the magnolias at Kenwood House, in the middle of Hampstead Heath. It is one of my favourite spots and it always has a wonderful display of blossom in Spring. 


And what else? Well, we had the daughter of a Japanese friend to stay, and her high school friend - they had a spare day in London. They and their families gave us all kinds of cute gifts, of which the prettiest included these dinky little chocolates.  The cherry blossom is of course just in season but apparently it's the symbol of that particular brand of chocolates too.   Now, the chocolates are no more but I'll be keeping the box - Japanese packaging is always so beautiful.  


The leaves haven't quite come out on the trees and we've had some good sunsets. I do like this time of year. The photo below reminds me of certain children's book illustrations of the 1920s. I can imagine E.H. Shepherd (illustrator of Pooh Bear) being a bit inspired by this scene, somehow, can't you? 


52 comments:

  1. After 21 years in London I see more of it on here than I ever did in real life. The trouble is living there leaves too little time to stop and stare, and if you stop you are run over.
    Ruskin was important in his day, he helpfully opened a town hall (?) somewhere up north and then derided them from claiming to be 'Christian' while actually worshipping money. The town hall they boasted was several feet bigger than the local neighbours. Interesting man but I never knew about his youth.
    We sell small rocks at museum, lovely coloured slices of stone. There was a list claiming their healing properties but that was in my mind a lot of bull, they are after all merely rock. Nice to look at but just stones and nothing more.
    Two Temple Place is quite something. I often find houses boring but that is a work of art and worth a visit. Super pictures as always.
    Glad you got the passport, whether Brexit comes or not you will probably get by easier by flashing that rather than one of the Blue Ones. Good for you. Now you will have to listen to Irish radio!

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    1. I was chatting to someone who is Irish and he said, if you want to be Irish stay away from Irish pubs, Guinness,step dancing, fiddle music, potatoes etc. that's just for the tourists! Mind you he did not mention showbands which are still apparently popular with the older set. I did not know Braintree was famous for its local stone, but in fact many types are beautiful when polished up.

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  2. A very interesting blog, Jenny, from start to finish. We see churches here being used as residences now (especially small country churches whose congregations have literally died off) but I had never realized there was a requirement for them to be formally deconsecrated. It may be a ceremony used frequently in the next few years, as many churches are in trouble. John Ruskin had the kind of early life that would be abhorrent to most of us, but it didn't affect his creative spark to be sure. Great introduction to London locations many of us have probably never heard of, yet venues that are very interesting and worthy of a visit.

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    1. I think they need to be deconsecrated because you never know what might be going on inside a private house, I guess, perhaps not appropriate for consecrated ground. Like all big cities London has so many terrific places that are not well known.

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  3. As always a fascinating , interesting and educational post.

    When I was a young man John Ruskin fascinated me and I have an 1893 two volume (original I think) The Life and Works of John Ruskin by W G Collingwood (which I received as a 21st Birthday present) as well as the two volume 1891 The Poems of John Ruskin. I probably have other books in the loft about Ruskin (and Collingwood for that matter).

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    1. I wonder if W G Collingwood was any relation to S D Collingwood who was the nephew of Lewis Carroll and wrote a couple of books about him. L.C. of course knew Ruskin and Ruskin knew "Alice" and her family and also adored the company of the girls, I suppose they were used to elderly bachelors being enchanted with them. A strange social life in Oxford in those days, I often think, and a very small world!

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    2. I'd not been familiar with S D Collingwood until you mentioned him so I have no answer for your question. I'm still away at the moment and will have friends staying when I get home. However you have aroused my curiosity and I'll do my best to remember to see if I have kept any of Collingwood's other books which might provide illumination. (No pun upon S D C's Lewis Carrol Picture book intended).

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  4. Do we know why William Waldorf Astor chose (if he did) to build a magnificent and very expensive house near the Inns of Court? The area is historically fascinating, but there was no room for even modest garden space.

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    1. I don't think I actually know, although the building was in fact designed as an estate office for the Astor estates throughout England. I have occasionally wondered where the bedrooms are as the layout is unusual, but my guess is that Lord A used one or two rooms as a pied a terre when he was in London. If it was an estate office I suppose it was quite handy having it near the lawyers. There are a few estate offices around there still.

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  5. You always visit such interesting places, and i would hope opals are not bad luck as i like them immensely.

    As for Irish food, everyone around here likes corned beef and cabbage, but that's probably boring.

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    1. I associate corned beef with wartime austerity food in Britain, although I seem to remember quite liking it as a child. I don't think I've ever felt any wish to try it again since I grew up though!

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  6. You've covered a lot of ground in this fascinating post, Jenny, and I don't know where to begin. First of all, I'm sorry to hear that you've run into a "significant problem" concerning your latest literary endeavor, but I think that makes it more interesting and creatively inspiring.

    As for Brexit, I'm not British - but the whole affair (mess?) still gives me a headache (almost as much as the U.S. Congress does...)

    When you mentioned unlucky opals I was curious enough to look it up. It seems that white opals are unlucky, except if they're worn by someone who was born in October!!! That's one of the weirdest things I've ever heard. Anyway, I like opals.

    I am completely smitten by those stained glass windows in the Two Temple Place. They are magnificent and I could gaze at them all day! Wow!!!
    Somehow, the last photo reminds me of paintings by the German artist Caspar Friedrich.

    I like those little Irish trinkets. For some reason, many Americans associate St. Patrick's Day food with corned beef and cabbage. And green beer.......

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    1. Green beer! Eek! That does sound bad. I'm imagining Guinness with green foam! I have resolved the "significant problem" I'm glad to say, and am now waiting for the next one to arrive :) I also love stained glass windows and they are some of the best I have ever seen in a private house. Mind you I think the US was very lucky to have Louis Comfort Tiffany! Went to his museum in Orlando and it was absolutely enchanting - also magnificent examples in the Met.

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  7. I love your posts - I don't know how you manage to cover so much. Ruskin's never particularly appealed - I should read more about him - though I have visited Ruskin's View in Kirkby Lonsdale often and keep meaning to pop into Brantwood. 2 Temple Place looks amazing; it has been a 'must visit' for some time - walked past so often - though I do know next door, BAT's HQ, very well. I'd never thought of a crocus as being Suffragette-like; you're quite right!

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    1. I have never been to Brantwood, I am sure, although my husband is equally sure that we have. I remember passing by it on the way to Coniston Coppermines youth hostel when I was much younger. But there we are. Anyway I would really like to return. I hope you do get to visit Two Temple Place - it's open winters only - because I'd love to read what you write about it.

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  8. "Well, we're going to Potato Land!" ... a gem of a statement that wiped out everything else I wanted to say. Enjoyed reading this post, Jenny, am going to re-read it right now.

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    1. Thanks Valerie! It is a laugh a minute with 5 year olds!

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  9. Hello Jenny, Thank you for the introduction to 2 Temple Place--another addition to my "next trip to England" list. The beautiful interior looks moody and evocative, but I wonder if it would be easy to live continuously in a house like that. (I am willing to try the experiment!)

    I also love geological specimens. Opal is one of the minerals that can replace organic matter in fossils, so it is possible to find opalized wood, seashells, etc. In fact, many gem opals are cut from such sources. I have an opalized twig, mostly white with glints of color, that I find fascinating.
    --Jim

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    1. I love to visit it but don't think I'd like to visit it - it's too dark. If I were going to pay several million for a house in that location, I'd definitely want somewhere I could catch a few rays on sunny days. It doesn't have much of a garden although to be fair it is on the edge of the Inns of Court which have lots of wonderful gardens assuming you happen to be a member - and even a few open to you if you are not a member. I would love an opalised twig. I do have some specimens from the Petrified forest in Arizona which I have sometimes wondered about.

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  10. As always, so many great things in your post, Jenny. Congratulations on becoming Irish - and with the perfect trinkets to celebrate. Two Temple place is absolutely a gorgeous house, and I'd love to see it. John Ruskin always intrigued me when I studied Art History, and I am sure his collection would be really worth a visit. Love the Garden Museum also - so many things to see in London, what a wonderful city. The Japanese chocolates are a visual treat, and no doubt were delicious. Cherry blossom time must be gorgeous.

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    1. I'm delighted with the garden museum which has undergone a revamp since I last saw it. I should have done a better post about it. It will have to go on my list, which gets longer and longer....

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  11. So much to love in this post. First off, let me say that that is NOT a house, it is a small castle. Or something. Palace? It's beautiful. Not sure I could live there but I sure would like to visit.
    And your story about Ruskin and how so many artists have a story of being in bed for months at a time due to childhood illness or some version of having to use their own imaginations due to a lack of what we would think of as normal stimulation. And that leads to thinking of all of the "educational" toys we buy our children and those horrible Einstein videos for babies to "stimulate" their imaginations and for what? I don't know. The older I get, the less I know but you certainly have some beautiful photos here.
    Congratulations on becoming Irish! For some reason, completely mysterious to me, we eat corned beef and cabbage and potatoes for St. Patrick's day. And Irish soda bread.

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    1. I guess it is a small mansion. (Never been QUITE sure what a mansion is, and if size is a factor, but a mansion is always grand at any rate. )I think R.L. Stevenson had to lie in bed for months at a time as a child as well. I am with you a hundred percent about the educational toys. And watching things and looking at stuff on screens has to be bad. I don't think I could stand corned beef, and am starting to think that taking everyone to an Irish stand up comedian might be the answer, nobody seems keen on the food suggestions! my son in law who is Irish said, "you ought to be more like an Irish person and say, 'we don't want to eat too Irish now.'" ! :)

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  12. Amazing photos.... lovely "colored glass ceiling"...
    Have a great day

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    1. Always envied those stained glass ceilings when ever I see them.

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  13. I love this post, Jenny -- it tells me loads and loads in your wonderful style and it also inspires me to plan my next visit to England when I can take a look at these two magnificent sites. I'm not sure which I'd love most. The photos are gorgeous and really take me in. I sure couldn't have lived Ruskin's childhood but I suppose you know what you know. In any event, his later years were quite magnificent. And I love that you take us to places that aren't listed with stars in a guidebook. I experienced that with you and loved it and would love these too. Kenwood in bloom -- ah, now THAT brings back memories, maybe not of the blooms but of a gorgeous day. (And by the way, your purple passport is far more beautiful than our boring blue ones!)

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    1. I hope you will visit England again Jeanie! I don't think I could have stood Ruskin's childhood either, I would probably have rebelled and come to a bad end, he seems to have been the type who made the best of things!

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  14. I am so blessed to know you in cyberland so that I can lurk quietly behind you as you travel to all these magnificent and fascinating places. Thanks for sharing, Jenny!! It means a lot to a lot of people, I am sure. :)

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    1. Thanks, Rita! Blogging is a wonderful way to get a glimpse into others lives, I appreciate it so much too!

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  15. Wonderful post, thank you
    The Astor house is stunning. I'm surprised it isn't the centerpiece of a film.

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  16. Two Temple Place is magnificent. I never paid a visit when I lived in London - how on earth did I miss it? No expense spared by the look of it. The artwork of mirrors and dried flowers is amazing too.

    Can't recommend any Irish recipes. Our recipes seem to come from every country except Ireland! Jenny has an Irish passport because she comes from an old Irish family, but I don't qualify for one unless I was born in the Republic.

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    1. I am not sure Temple place was open when you lived in London - you 've been in Belfast for quite a while, haven't you? I hadn't heard of it till about 7 or 8 years ago. as for Irish passports, if you happened to be born in Northern Ireland you are also eligible, or have at least one Irish parent or grandparent. It is dual nationality btw.

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  17. Magnolias will bring warm spring to us.

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    1. They last such a short time, like the cherry blossom!

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  18. That Ruskin museum looks wonderful.

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  19. Interesting post, and so much going on that before I get to the bottom, I've forgotten most of the comments running through my head during the reading ;) I see what you mean about the last photo, though... And, oh, about opals being unlucky... There's a cursed opal necklace in Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince (which I happen to be re-listening to at the moment)... (and less things than one might think are quite "random" in those books)...

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    1. Ah, so J K Rowling has heard about them being cursed too. By the way, I am glad that you see what I mean about the last photo, I am not sure anyone else has commented on it .

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  20. John Ruskin...what a fascinating person he was, the name itself reminds me of my husband, he went to John Ruskin School near Croydon!
    The Tradescants...One of the lovely flowers that we have on Arabia Mountain is called "spiderwort" but the botanical name is "Tradescantia" and you know that is what we call it!
    Good luck with your book, I am looking forward to it.

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    1. I do believe that they discovered the plant first. Well, that would make sense, wouldn't it? :)

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  21. i am stunned with the beauty and charm of that house you just shared dear Jenny!

    outstanding job and i am thankful for this generosity ,it just hold my senses :)

    happy spring and best of luck for all the tasks ahead my friend!

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    1. Thank you Baili! :) I hope you have a lovely week!

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  22. Congratulations on the Irish passport - a wise move I think.
    2,Temple Place is very special. My lawyer son knows the area well, but only the outside of that bit, so your writing will persuade him to visit properly.
    I think opals may be considered unlucky because they are unstable as gemstones - something to do with their water content, so don't wear them while you're washing up.

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    1. Well, I am definitely not the kind of person who wears precious stones when they are washing up! In fact, not quite sure when I would wear them to be honest, I'm always a bit worried about somehow ruining anything nice that I ever get. I wish it were an unfounded worry too! :) just sprayed yogurt on some new trousers when opening the carton...

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  23. Some Ruskin books were assigned in some classes that I once took, but other Victorian writers always appealed to me more than he did. The house you depicted is very appealing in a Victorian way -- I guess from what you say that it's not really connected to Ruskin other than holding an exhibit of his possessions. When I think about it, I realize that I really prefer the early 20th century artists and architects who were rejecting Victorian aesthetics, and were trying to simplify their fussiness.

    On several visits to Ireland I've had truly delicious food, though it would be hard to identify what was specifically Irish about it. The problem of course is that the Irish were so mistreated in the early 19th century that they hardly had any food at all, and you can't have a cuisine unless you have some reasonable access to good products. While the Irish were starving, meat and other products were being exported to England, which was an outrage. And explains why there's not much Irish cuisine.

    best... mae at maefood.blogspot.com

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    1. I do like some of the more extravagant Victorian architecture which was created with a serious purpose. I think that late Victorian "everything" was pretty hideous. There are some very ugly houses not far from me that were built around 1900 and it got even worse for a couple of decades until modernism came along. I think I'd have gone for it too if I'd lived in the early 20th century! In fact an Irish relative told me almost exactly the same thing. I might confine myself to a suitably decorated cake!

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  24. Hello Jenny, your posts are always so interesting and full of lovely facts and thoughts....and I have noted a new word (to me): shambolic! Yes, a perfect adjective to describe our US Congress as well I think ... Two Temple Palace is certainly richly and intricately arrayed. I'd love to see it in person. Congratulations on your Irish passport and I look forward to hearing/seeing all about your "becoming Irish" celebration later.

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    1. thanks! I should have probably made the point that I now have dual citizenship, I wouldn't want to relinquish one but it is really nice to have that side of myself acknowledged.

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  25. Jenny,
    I did not know about the life of Ruskin, thanks for telling me. I have not also heard that opal is an unlucky stone. There are many products from opal, for example, caskets in which cute things are kept.Two Temple Place is a magnificent building, I would consider its stained glass windows for a long time.
    Happy spring and success in your projects.

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    1. I think the time I heard that was when I was a child in Australia. I think they mine opals there and so perhaps there is something associated with that. Anyhow, it seems a shame to me that the most beautiful stone should be considered unlucky!

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  26. Another interesting post...I always learn a thing or two...maybe a trip to your library for an Irish cookbook or another on food history might help in your search. Congratulations.

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    1. I'm half deciding not to do a meal after all, everyone keeps saying it should include Guinness, which I hate! :)

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