Sunday 7 April 2019

Waiting for the Season to Start in Kefalonia.

The political situation here in Britain is so dreadful that I've decided I can only deal with it by quitting newspapers and magazines, switching off television or radio, abandoning all social media and turning off the internet all day. I reconnect it for an hour or so daily,  the way we always used to do - remember? Saving up all those little questions we'd normally google and having all the emails in at once.  As someone said to me the other day, "well, it means we talk to each other a lot more, doesn't it?"  Yes, and that's good.  It means I'm behind with blogs, although I do my best, as I love to read what you all write. 

So, almost immediately after I finished my last post, we finally headed off to two of the Greek Ionian islands, Ithaka and Kefalonia, which we'd planned to visit before my ankle started giving trouble.

You can only get flights to Kefalonia in the off-season via Athens, so after spending a night at the airport we took one of those little planes that I rather like.  You can see everyone in their winter gear, despite the bright sun.  Greek weather isn't always great in March, although we had some sunny days up to about 21 degrees (around 70F), but it became so cold and windy at times that I was sorry I'd left my woolly gloves in England!  



 The reason we went to Kefalonia is that T subscribes to something called "Footpaths of Greece"  which waymarks and describes some of the many old pathways and donkey tracks that criss-cross the country and its islands. Kefalonia and neighbouring Ithaka are two of those islands.   I was hoping my ankle would be better enough to risk tackling at least some of the easier tracks, and I'm glad to say I didn't have any problems at all. 

I can't tell you how beautiful it can be walking Greek trails at that time of year.   This is the start of a 2 km hike up a hillside to an large abandoned Venetian castle at Assos, dating from 1598, which we had entirely to ourselves the whole balmy sunny afternoon.




We stayed in the capital, Argostoli, where many shops, cafes and hotels stay open before and after the main season.  I don't usually recommend hotels, and I didn't get any freebies from ours, but I'll recommend the Aggelos Hotel for two reasons. No, three reasons. It is only a two star, and inexpensive, so that needs to be borne in mind, but it has a beautiful, beautiful view of the bay and the mountains. This is what you see when you look out of the front door. And so quiet, with just the  occasional pedestrian, yet an easy walk to restaurants and bars if that's what you want. 


Second, the breakfast was great, with a big variety of food ranging from Greek cheese pie to sesame sticks, lemon cake to the most delicious Greek yogurt and honey ever.   There was a breakfast room in the basement, but since we were staying out of season we had a choice where to sit and eat, so we took our food up to the small terrace, and sat in the morning sun with that view. Yes, I know it's a half eaten breakfast - but I hadn't thought to take the photo beforehand! 


And third, the staff were really helpful.    Nothing was too much trouble.  I guess you could add a fourth plus, which is that it was actually open when so many other places were closed. 

In fact, Argostoli is quite a thriving little town and it has been spending the winter renovating its sea front to create walks and places for visitors to go. Here's an evening photo of the causeway that cuts off the end of the bay to create a wildlife lagoon beyond. 


One of the nicest walks we did was called "Seven watermills," and it's near the port town of Sami. We only saw two mills before the path became too technical for my ankle to cope with, but even so we took four hours meandering around,  including a stop for a picnic, because there was so much to see.  We didn't meet a soul, and all the time we were accompanied by a very, very clear and fast river running between white stone banks.


We really did spend a lot of time just sitting and looking at the water, rushing and twinkling in the sun.



There were clouds of butterflies of all types. I'm never going to be a wildlife photographer but I managed to catch a common blue 


and a much rarer one called the Southern Festoon


Before we left the UK, I went on the Kefalonia forum at Tripadvisor and asked advice from one of the experts about things to see in Argostoli.    He suggested I visited ARK, Animal Rescue Kefalonia. "You might like to bring the volunteers some sandwiches," he said. 


So, one evening we drove down an extremely narrow country lane, and just as we were wondering if we'd come to the right place, we arrived at the rescue centre. It had officially closed for the day, but the chorus of barking at our arrival brought along Joyce, a young Dutch woman who has volunteered there for three years, followed by Marina, the lady who started the refuge in memory of her friend Doris, many years ago.  They were happy to show us around. 

We loved it.  It was run entirely for the animals' benefit, with just the kind of things animals like ... here you see dogs sitting on chairs and tables to their hearts content. 


The cats were allowed to lie on the bed all they wanted, too - and note the little tiled "houses" and carefully divided feed plates so all the cats can live together in harmony and have a night on the tiles if that is what suits them....  Of course, the cats roam about more than the dogs, but most of them chose to live in the shelter. 


What struck me is that the place smelt completely clean, and considering there are 250 dogs and goodness knows how many cats, I can't imagine the work it takes to keep it that way.  

Marina was really delightful, a most warm hearted lady who reminded me a bit of one of my great-aunts, who was also a devoted animal lover.  Here she is. 


Each of the animals is given a name, and Joyce and Marina know their histories and look after them appropriately.  These two below, for instance, are a mother dog (at the rear) and her son.  I've forgotten what they were called, but the mother was chained on a very short leash and starving when found, and the son was the only puppy from her litter that had survived.   Now they are fully restored to health, but are still unhappy when other dogs are in their compound.  And, when the son was adopted, he pined so much that he was returned.  So the pair of them now live at the shelter permanently, in a compound of their own. 


All the dogs in the group below, though, are happy in a pack but would probably like an owner of their own. 


Certain dogs who are used to all kinds of people and understand a domestic environment, are allowed to range around freely and meet the visitors, and very well behaved they all were.   T and I were full of admiration to see such a huge crowd of happy healthy animals. 

 The whole place is supported by donations, and it gave me quite a headache to wonder how much it costs to feed 250 dogs every day - not to mention vaccinate and de-worm them, and neuter them if there is enough cash.  We hadn't brought any sandwiches after all, but we gave them a bigger donation than we'd planned, and I am sure that every penny of it was put to good use. 

That evening we ate in a souvlaki place on the main square, and very good it was... but there was far too much, so we took away a doggy bag.  Literally so.  Next day, we took the ferry to Ithaka, and a couple of dogs at the Ithaka port were very glad indeed of the leftovers.


I'll leave you with this picture taken one evening at dusk on the other side of Argostoli lagoon. I've been wondering for years what this pink shrub is called. It lives near water and is quite pale and dainty in appearance - so if you know, please tell me! 



47 comments:

  1. Beautiful. I am glad to read you ankle didn't prevent you from enjoying the trip.
    The dogs in the chairs makes me smile. Wow, 250 dogs is mind boggling!

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    1. I know, 250 dogs! It was a pretty big place. I think they live from hand to mouth, really, although local businesses and local people do support them of course, and I noticed on their website that someone in England did a jumble sale to raise money for them.

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  2. Jenny, the only sure way to relax is to abandon the media completely and get away from the onslaught of never-ending insanity! Going to the beautiful Greek isles is a fantastic idea. I've never been there, but your wonderful photos provided me with a mini armchair vacation. The scenery, the food, even the butterflies are fantastic.

    I really like that animal rescue center, but I'd admittedly be reluctant to go there - - because I'd want to adopt ALL of them - cats and dogs alike.

    Ironically, I bought some Greek yogurt a few days ago but haven't eaten it yet.

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    1. I must say that I wanted to adopt some of the animals, too. But unlike most shelters, I didn't feel sorry for them - they were obviously all loved to bits by the helpers in their different ways. I love Greek yogurt and hope you enjoy yours. I wondered why the yogurt in Greece tasted more characterful than the Greek yogurt we get here, though, and realised it is because there's a lot of sheep and goat yogurt there, which I think has a nicer taste. (I never thought I would find myself saying I liked goat yogurt, but hey, it's true!)

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  3. Hello Jenny, What a magical vacation this seems. Scenery that almost cannot be real, and no crowds to boot. The story about the animal shelter was very sweet, but what happens when those animals allowed to roam on the furniture are adopted? Their new owners might not see eye to eye with this policy. Seriously, the dedication and love of those women is remarkable.
    --Jim

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    1. It was a bit magical, Jim, specially the watermills walk. I think it was all the butterflies. The smart thing about the way they kept the animals in the shelter is that they tailored the accommodation to the dogs themselves. The ones who were likely to be adopted were kept in compounds without furniture. I think that the ones on the furniture were almost like pets of the people who worked there.

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  4. A beautiful little trip. I so admire people who undertake animal rescue.

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  5. Jenny, this just looks like heaven. I mean it. Simply heaven. It's just about brought me to tears. Thank you.

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    1. Thanks, it really did have a very special feel.

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  6. Beautiful photos as always!

    Yes the political situation here in the UK is depressing, initially I was obsessed with keeping up with all that was going on, now I've given up.

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    1. That's the only thing to do although I think I will come to political life again if there is a chance of making a change to the system - it really needs it doesn't it?

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  7. That is a beautiful place, and the rescue, i’d want to move in and help, especially if i got to see those mountains and that sea often.

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  8. The pink shrub looks familiar, can't help with the name though. I liked reading about the cats and dogs, and the photo of their housing area had my cat's double at the front. Ginger and White, a perfect image.

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    1. What a coincidence! I always yearned for a ginger cat when I was young, and ginger and white even more. I never got one - we always had white or black and white ones! There were some fairly unusual cats in the shelter, including some with the long fur I associate with Persian cats.

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  9. You are fortunate to be able to get away to such a place. Nice to read about the animal rescues too.

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    1. It's one of the nicest things about travelling, to see unexpected places.

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  10. I'm most impressed by the animal rescue set-up. Looking after so many cats and dogs must be a colossal undertaking, and it's wonderful they all seemed to be so happy and healthy. I like the way they're allowed to commandeer any place they fancy including tables and chairs!

    You were lucky to find such an excellent hotel with great views, super-helpful staff and fantastic food. You never quite know if an untried hotel is going to be good, poor or dreadful.

    Glad to hear your ankle is much better and allowing you to do some serious walking again.

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    1. I am so grateful that the ankle is allowing me to walk, although I would not say it is "serious" - I have to think quite hard about the route to make sure I feel confident. But I can go up and down hills, and rough ground is more possible too. Yes, for a two star hotel it was very good value. As you say specially places can be few and far between but I have been thinking I should perhaps mention them in the blog if and when I do find them!

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  11. Dear Jenny,
    what a wonderful trip you have had! I'm glad you relaxed without tv, radio, news, blogs :-)
    only listening to the sound of running water and breathing the fresh air of Greece islands. I love your photos, as I liked to be there and feel the spring,
    The last photo is of Tamarix ramosissima, commonly known as salt cedar,with characteristic small pink flowers.

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    1. I loved the alternative name of "salt cedar" - I guess the salt is because it does seem to like being near the sea, or at least, that is often where I see them. It was wonderful to be on the island, and it is so unpolluted too. Good for the body as well for the soul to be away!

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  12. very beautiful views...and delicious foods...yummy.
    Enjoy your travel

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  13. Oh Jenny -- wow! This is just glorious -- every photo, every word. What a good break from the political world surrounding you. A true haven. I loved your view, the walks and so glad your ankle did well. That had to be a huge relief. And of course, the shelter. That would grab at my heart big time. Yes, their budget must be enormous. I saw cats that looked like Lizzie and my first boy, Stimpy. I love that they seem to do just fine together. Lizzie will hiss like crazy if a cat even comes into the neighbor's yard! I wish I knew the name of that gorgeous shrub at the end. Lovely. Oh, and well done, you, with the butterflies! Don't sell yourself short on nature photography!

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    1. You know Jeanie I have no idea how they can afford to feed all those dogs, it was a very large place and they certainly weren't wealthy - the enclosures seemed to be all home made, although with love and care. They have a facebook page and I think that perhaps their followers donate to help them. I don't think I'll ever have the patience to be a good nature photographer, but T's camera has a wonderful spot focus facility which helps a lot. Now, if only the darn things will learn to sit still for me to photograph them.... !

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  14. So glad you had a restorative time - and such lovely pictures. (And good to know you’ve found a way to stay sane during the current shambles).

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  15. What wonderful women to run such a special place for the dogs and cats!! Earth angels!!

    As usual, I love to see where you have wandered. Glad your ankle held up. :)

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    1. Earth angels! I have never heard that expression before, but it is very nice. I'll remember it.

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  16. So pleased your ankle was healed enough for you to enjoy the walks. What a superb view from the hotel.
    I think the bush looks like a Tamarisk.. we have one that looks like that in a large pot by our back door. It's just 'greening up' at the moment.

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    1. Yes, tamarisk rings a bell. Nadezda had a lovely name for it, Salt cedar, which I really like. Such a pretty tree.

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  17. Oh Jenny, how absolutely gorgeous! I want to go there too and visit the animal shelter. Those dogs and cats look like they lead a very happy life. I wonder how much better off they would be in a normal home. There they have company, each other and comfort. Kefalonia looks beautiful. My idea of heaven!

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    1. I think that is what I liked so much about the shelter - all the animals really were happy, with wagging tails and that lively look that happy animals have. I've just been reading Gerald Durrell's "The Stationary Ark" about the design and role of zoos, and one of the interesting things in it is his discussions of how to design enclosures that suit the animals who have to live in them, not the people who look at them. I think Marina has got that idea spot on

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  18. A lovely relief from weather and politics!

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  19. Fantastic! What a way to get way from Brexit!
    Glad you had such a good time.

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    1. Brexit is the gift you don't want that keeps on giving though, eh? I feel we have a bit of a respite, although giving MPs an easter break and then a long summer holiday isn't my idea of making good use of the time.

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  20. What a wonderful escape from Brexit. The watermill walk looks especially enjoyable, and I'm glad your ankle allowed you access.
    I'm also glad you've had help with Tamarix. It will grow quite cheerfully here as well.

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    1. The watermill walk was very memorable - one of those places I really won't forget. It was hard to get really good photos of it, so perhaps the best thing is to just try and remember how it was.

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  21. Hi Jenny - Thanks for visiting my blog and taking the time to comment! I used to have a reasonable internet community, but most of them have quit blogging and got on with the rest of their lives... Totally agree that British politics are a mess just now. I've had to declare 'no politics at breakfast' as it sucked all my motivation for the rest of the day. My husband and I both agree, it wasn't about disagreement, but it is such a mess it is depressing. Your hotel recommendation definitely sounds worth remembering and the animal shelter sounds amazing (particularly the cleanliness). We haven't been to Greece lately, though we went several times when I was still working. I do love Greek food and of course it is a beautiful country. We must go back one day. So far our travel plans are Bill's son's wedding in Wales this summer and perhaps return to Loches France in the motorhome in the early autumn. Nothing (except the wedding) fixed as yet. Thanks again for dropping by!

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    1. I was glad to rediscover your blog. I see I "follow" it but never seem to see notifications, and I last visited a long time ago. I wonder if the blog follower thing isn't supported anymore. Regarding Brexit, I am not sure I know ANYONE who is anything but absolutely fed up and upset about it, and it certainly was wonderful to get away! I will try to remember to check on your blog in future, as it was nice reading it again!

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  22. We spent a lovely fortnight on Kefalonia and even I (not a happy swimmer) enjoyed the warm, clear, water at Assos. The island was full of flowers. Your visit must have been a great antidote to the quite ridiculous (whatever your point of view) political situation at the moment. Is that shrub a tamarix (or something)? You see them in south east England... Thank you so much for your lovely comment over on A Bit About Britain - much appreciated, particularly as I admire your writing a great deal.

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    1. Kefalonia is very pleasant, but at the time of our visit, swimming didn't seem like a great idea. It was surprisingly cold, really - I brought one fleece and wish I'd brought two, so I could alternate them! I do enjoy your blog very much and when I finally do get a bit further Northwards in Britain (which is not somehow happening, even though I intend to go) I will be going to see some of the fascinating places you have highlighted.

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  23. I loved this trip of your to Kefalonia dear Jenny !

    stunning view and such a delightful weather

    during our hoteling we too prefer to eat outside which make us feel more relaxed and chilled than inside no matter how cozy it is

    this is such a gorgeous view and food looks terrific :)

    i enjoyed the animal rescue center visit too ,how cute and delightful these lovely creatures are

    loved the kind lady who loved those pets as much and remember their name and histories which is quite a job

    your excellent capture of blue butterfly is just SPLENDID:)))

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  24. The pink bushes...I wonder if they are oleander bushes? I have only seen pictures of them.

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  25. I remember going to Kefalonia to plan a round the world trip in 1991. Good job I did not go to the animal rescue place as I'd have adopted for sure.

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