Tuesday 6 December 2016

Akita - text fixed.

(I posted this in a hurry without checking how it appeared, and then found it was nearly illegible because of a load of junk html which had appeared.  Blogger does this. I've now removed the junk)

Whenever we told our various Japanese friends we would be visiting Akita, they asked, politely,  "Why is this?"    I think they were surprised to find that Western visitors with a limited time in Japan would make the long trip up to this rather remote area.   But actually, Akita was fantastic.  We originally headed there because we were staying with people who lived there, but something about the region  "spoke" to me, and I would love to return another time.  

One place I'd particularly like to return to is Nyuto Onsen.   This is actually a collection of ryokans (traditional inns with hot springs) inside the Towada Hachimantai National Park.    Weather permitting, you can hike in the surrounding mountain and valleys, and visit all the ryokans and onsens if you feel like it.  The picture below shows the type of scenery, (although I think they only have sections of boardwalk in ecologically sensitive or marshy areas.)  


  We visited in October and were lucky to catch the most spectacular autumn leaves. 


I like to know what trees I'm looking at, and I did identify beech and maple, both of which have brilliantly coloured foliage, but many of the other trees weren't familiar and as you see there was quite a variety, stretching away for miles. 


Given unlimited time and money, I think I'd have hiked some of the trails between several different ryokan, but we only had time to visit Tsurunoyu Onsen, perhaps the best known of them all.   You approach it via a very narrow road. this picture doesn't show the hairpin bends and steep gradients and the deep ditches - but it is certainly rustic. Passing the occasional car or bus was a bit of a challenge, and I did wonder how people manage when it's deep in snow - they most certainly do come then, because the onsens look fabulous and are popular in the winter.  Anyway, we got there in one piece, with me admiring trees all the way - partly so that I didn't have to think about the hairpin bends and steep drops...


And I loved the many lively streams and  little waterfalls in the woods.



This ryokan has traditional samurai-era lodgings - you can see some of them in the photo below.  Here, you live in traditional Japanese style, and your food is cooked for you in a fire pit in the floor.  I was too polite to photograph the people I saw through open doors and windows, sitting and eating.



The central pathway shown below leads to the pools.  And I'm sorry to be disappointing, but I was too polite to snap away with my camera there too.  The tradition is that you are quite naked, and although it did not bother me, I am not sure I'd have liked someone coming in and taking photos of me.      



The women's pool, Kodakara-no-yu (I'm told it means “blessed with children”) is three or four feet deep. It seems to be almost unchanged from centuries ago, with its bamboo pipes bringing in natural hot and cold water,  rough wooden changing shelter hewn from logs, and long white banners hanging over the entrance.  It is milky green-white in colour, and pretty hot, and a couple of strides from its edge there's a tiny shrine, set on the black volcanic rock. Traditionally, women who hoped to conceive used this pool and prayed at the shrine.

 I learned afterwards that the shrine is supposed to have a sculpture of a penis in it, but somehow I missed seeing that.  So I guess I won't be having any more children as a result of my visit. 

This is the entrance to the mixed pool, which you can glimpse if you look at the little opening on the left.





The place has been left in a very natural state, very clean but not groomed and "prettified."  Being surrounded by silence and natural beauty is very relaxing, although if you got near to the waterwheel, you could hear it trundling around. 





I'd like to write a bit about the Namahage, godlike creatures who live in the mountains and visit homes in the depths of Akita's harsh and snowy winters at New Year.  Also about some wonderful architecture that we saw.   But that will have to wait for my next post.  I will leave you with a picture of the famous Akita dog.

This breed is rather like a husky, bred to cope with the savage winters. It is said to be an independent and dominant breed that is fond of its owners but doesn't relate well to strangers.  Although we called to this one, it took absolutely no notice of us but continued to lie there with its eyes obstinately closed.  Perhaps that is how it showed it was independent and dominant and didn't like strangers.   But what a lovely dog, or at least I thought so.


(By the way, I have been meaning to say that my artist pal The Chubby Chatterbox has a superb picture giveaway on his blog - and it only has two days to run.  Take a look here for more details. )

30 comments:

  1. The photos are gorgeous but surprising. For some odd reason, I never thought Japan had autumns so similar to those here in the "west".
    I love the Akita dog, but never knew there was a place called Akita.
    I always learn new things from your travels!

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  2. A beautiful dog in a lovely place!

    You are right, if i were there bathing, i wouldn't want a stranger taking my picture, and i'd have to refrain from taking such photos.

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  3. Really enjoyed your post, though parts were missing. Glad to hear you're not planning on more children. I've always thought Akita's were gorgeous dogs.

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  4. Magnificent scenery and foliage. I'm learning a lot about Japan thanks to you.

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  5. These are lovely - you really will have to go back and walk more of those trails!

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  6. Now that is my kind of vacation! I liked to visit quiet places with not so many tourists...or used to when I could travel...even if I never went outside of the United States and Canada. ;) So lovely!!! Akitas have such thick fur! Very loyal watchdogs. (Used to work in pet shops.) Great post.

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  7. The colours of the autumn leaves in your pics are amazing. The autumn leaves in Northern Ireland have been wonderful too. You were right not to take photos of people without their permission. They might have been quite annoyed. Tourists can be rather insensitive about other people's privacy. I love the Akita dog. It looks very contented sprawled on the tiles!

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  8. Thank you for showing a Japan I never knew existed. Its beautiful there. Did you call to the dog in Japanese?

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  9. The colours of those leaves are stunning. It actually reminds me, strangely, of Scotland. I love the idea of the bathing pools but I'd never be able to go in without a swimming costume. Would love to walk the trails though.

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  10. This is exactly where I would most want to visit in Japan.

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  11. It looks like a perfect place for a relaxing vacation - ideal to recuperate from the daily stresses of life!

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  12. Beautiful...and it's easy to see why you would want to visit the area.

    I think visiting areas away from the cities and normal touristy spots is really worthy. That's when you see the "real" parts of a country.

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  13. Thanks for teaching me more about Japan...the colors and scenery are compelling. A friend had an Akita that saved her life. They are very loyal to their owners.

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  14. You have seen some really lovely and unusual parts of Japan, Jenny. The Autumn leaves are just gorgeous, touched with sunlight. The olde world pools would be an interesting and relaxing experience in those surroundings, but of course, one would not wish for intrusive photographers...

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  15. I enjoyed looking at your pictures, especially the dog! I had trouble reading the yellow text though, Everything blurred because of the colour scheme which obviously didn't suit my eyes. I just hope it clears up soon.

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    1. I am sorry about the colour scheme, Valerie. I have such problems with Blogger and it won't allow me to alter the colours on my page. I am just grateful it has come out readable at all! When I first posted, it came out yellow on white which was impossible.

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  16. Akita looks stunning, Jenny. And, having read your account, I can quite understand how it might have spoken to you. Something timeless about it. Look forward to hearing about the Namahage!

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  17. Wonderful autumnal colours and scenery - welcome to look at right now, while a dense fog makes it feel as if I am sitting in a building wrapped in cotton wool.
    In my favourite computer game, the people (Sims) can have pets, dogs and cats. One of the dog breeds available to them is the Akita - now I know where they come from!

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  18. What an amazing place it must have been to visit. I have enjoyed outdoor natural pools here in No CA and can only imagine the experience in Japan. Enjoyed the scenery and understand about privacy of others.

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  19. It looks wonderful. You have to be bold to photogrpah people in the nude, that’s for sure. We have nudIst beaches and villages here and it’s very difficult to not look as though the people are the subjects when all you want is the view!

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  20. Fantastic sights. Those autumn colours are to die for. :-) Thanks.

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  21. What a good article. You certainly have a flair for description and observation.
    I agree with one of your commenteers, Becca, it does remind me strangely of Scotland, and funnily enough, some parts of New Zealand.
    I also have to agree with another comment: Naked in Public? Never.

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  22. Jenny, this is so beautiful. And you picked the best time of year to be there. The color is magnificent. I can see why this place captured your heart.

    Your experience at the onsen reminded me of visiting on somewhere in the Shiga prefecture. One thing I noticed (given that none of the women were in clothes) was the amount of keloids, apparently visual reminders of the atomic bombs at Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Talk about being the outsider! I don't think anyone spoke a word of English and I was definitely the minority! And that's a very good experience to have.

    Seeing the Akita dog reminded me of some old US trivia that may or may not mean anything to you. Years ago when OJ Simpson's wife and friend were murdered, there was great mention made of her dog -- an Akita. (I can hear you saying, "Who's he?!" Ouch. Age and distance!)

    A wonderful post. I loved each and every photo.

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  23. You did well to capture the colours! Looks a lovely place to wander around.

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  24. Oh my gosh. I love those pictures. And that the place spoke to you. That's how I feel about certain places as well. Very cool.

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  25. Very pretty. I love rural places with old buildings. The spectacular fall foliage is a pleasing bonus! By the way, where you say to connect with The Chubby Chatterbox does not seem to provide a link.

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  26. Beautiful pictures of a beautiful area.

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  27. Interesting story, Jenny, I've not learn much about Japanese traditions and was surprised especially the bathing in pools. The autumnal leaves are very pretty and I recollected our autumn, looking at the snow outside. The breed Akita is popular here and our neighbors have one dog with a little puppy.

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  28. All the pictures I've ever seen of Japan are so beautiful, and these are no exception. I'd love to visit one day.

    That dog looks so soft and fluffy.

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  29. Hello, again, Jenny! It was really a good idea to visit Akita first in your long travelling Japan as colored leaves come from higher altitude and latitude. This post shows how fantastic Akita was. As a Japanese I can easily imagine a narrow winding, zigzag road with cliff at one side in the mountainous countryside. I like open-air bath when it is attached to the room of the inn, but public open-air bath is no-no to me even I find security. The dog is cute. I like his free and comfortable life style and uniqueness.

    Yoko

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