Tuesday 15 March 2016

Iceland

I'm back from Iceland, and from Florida, too - what a contrast. I'll write about Iceland first and apologise in advance because my photos don't do it justice. But then photos don't do it justice. I think this might be because Iceland is the only place I have been where the weather is an active, living part of the landscape.  It is violent, unpredictable and moody, as if under the control of a none-too-benign god of nature.   If you've watched the utterly gripping and fantastic Icelandic detective series "Trapped" you'll recognise the kind of freezing snowy weather we encountered at times, and I felt inspired to record it in a short video clip to give an idea of it.



Although the snow had stopped for most of our trip, the wind was still hurling it almost horizontally as you can perhaps see in the distance of this lonely road, and our 4 x 4 was rocking around.


I had visited Iceland once before, years ago,and went some way into the interior then, but this time, with young A in tow, we confined ourselves to  the Reykjanes peninsula, where the scenery is fairly gentle by Icelandic standards - no towering volcanoes, huge waterfalls or glaciers, just a curious monochrome landscape of oddly shaped black lava,  and an icy blue-grey sea beating against the shores.  Sometimes in the snow it felt like being in a black and white photo.


The small valley shown below is where the continental plates of America and Europe meet, with what I suppose is a frozen river at the bottom.



 It was hard not to believe something supernatural was at the bottom of this cliff, because sulphurous steam was pouring out at top speed and being blown along by a furious gale.   I didn't dare go too near the edge.  The ice has been melted by the heat of the steam.


There were gigantic icicles larger than a person.


 We'd planned to walk around the headland on the coast  (below)  but it was actually too windy, and although you can't see in this film, snow was being picked up and hurled by the wind into great drifts over the path round the rock, making it impassable, so we didn't manage our walk.   I wish I could have taken a better film,  but after a few seconds I was afraid my little camera would be blown out of my freezing hands.



Most visitors take bus tours in winter, although some hardy souls do drive themselves through unpredictable weather along gravelled roads. We hired a guide, Thorsteinn Ragnasson and we were glad we did. Thorsteinn took us wherever we wanted in his 4 x 4 and he was great - good company, knowledgable and very calm and competent,  I was glad not to be in charge when blizzard conditions suddenly set in on a narrow mountain road. Ever had that experience when the car windows seem to have suddenly been replaced with illuminated white glass?


With young A sitting in the back it didn't seem like a good idea to try and make it the next few kilometres,  even though the snow would probably have stopped - so we  took a different route, and within twenty minutes all was clear and the sun was shining.


Boiling magma from the earth's centre forces its way near to the surface at some places in this highly volcanic island, and friends have told me how they have swum in summer in the hot water of remote country lakes,  miles from human life  - something I would love to do. But not in winter, when an urban setting seems a better bet for outdoor bathing.

The Blue Lagoon is one of Iceland's major tourist attractions, created from a huge blue lake which had been excavated in the making of a geothermal power station.  Many years ago, on my only other trip to Iceland, I passed the Blue Lagoon on a January night. I gazed longingly at it but didn't have time to go in, so I resolved to come back one day in winter, and float in the water and admire the snow on the distant hills.

And so I did.  The best way I can describe the experience is that it was like hovering in the sky.  It is timelessly calm as you float effortlessly in the warm, pale blue water, while mist rises around like cloud, and the sun's rays gild the mountain tops.

I didn't take my camera into the pool, but I went out onto the deck after I got dressed and took a few shots.  You will see that the lagoon is not over full - they wisely control the number of people who go in and so it is best to pre book, even in winter.


 You can enter the water via a heated indoor pool - seen here from the outside.  The indoor pool is cooler than the water outdoors, and when you are acclimatised you swim through a gate into the warmer water beyond.


There is a pontoon where you can get the white silica mud that occurs naturally and is particularly good for skin complaints.  There's also a cheerful floating bar where you pay for drinks via a wristband.  Young A, as a reward for enduring an afternoon of blizzards, was allowed to have an icecold drink with the unfortunate (to our ears)  name of "KRAP" which is apparently the Icelandic word for "slush."  (The picture below was taken in a roadside cafe where we stopped for lunch, by the way, not in the Blue Lagoon.)


The whole place is very efficient and modern, with sparkling clean changing rooms with heated floors - which are fairly easy to arrange in Iceland, for obvious reasons. There's a restaurant (which we didn't try) and they are building a hotel, too.  

Still on the swimming theme, I also wanted to go to one of the municipal swimming pools - most communities have one, and these pools too are warm. Although they look utilitarian, the town pools appear to be community spaces too, where people gather to socialise as well as to swim.

Ah well, another time.  I've now been twice to Iceland in the winter, and I'd love to go back in the summer. When I do I hope there'll be room again at the guesthouse where we stayed. It's called Guesthouse 1x6, and the owners, Andi and Yuki (below) seem to love their work. At least, they do crazy things like rising to give guests free airport transfers at 5 AM, cook them little treats and make excellent organic coffees on request.  So much nicer than an impersonal hotel.
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Don't you like this cool little 1950s themed seating area for guests - complete with painted birch trees on the left and free apples and bananas?  Not surprisingly, Guesthouse 1x6 has shot up the Tripadvisor ratings in its first year of existence, and is almost fully booked out for the summer already.


Just to say that apart from getting a free trip to the Blue Lagoon, I paid most of my own costs during the stopover. Actually, though, I got to travel free to Iceland simply by making a transatlantic flight via Reykjavik, and accepting the stopover offer of up to 7 days when changing planes.  It's as easy as that. (Although of course you have to make the transatlantic crossing too! )

Icelandair is a pretty good airline, spacious and modern, although the inflight entertainment didn't enthral me. There's a limited choice of international films and music and I'm afraid my appetite for up-and-coming Icelandic bands and documentaries about Iceland's attractions is small. I'm sure though that I would have felt different about their inflight entertainment f they'd offered the whole series of the utterly wonderful "Trapped"!  

59 comments:

  1. I was enthralled by ‘Trapped’. The scenery and the weather played the major roles, I thought, and I can’t say that I’d want to be actually trapped in the village portrayed in the series. But Andri would look after the visitors, I’m sure.

    I am glad to read this post so soon after ‘Trapped’; you have convinced me that Iceland is a magical place.

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  2. Simply enthralling, Jenny. Iceland is a place I'd love to go to. I thoroughly enjoyed your narrative, photos and clips - sounds like quite an adventure!

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  3. This was a great read for me after just coming in from the cold - my way to and from work is made in my heaviest padded winter coat these days, and I watched the whirl of snowflakes from my office window this afternoon with dismay...
    Iceland is a truly fascinating place, one of my friends has been some years ago and still goes on about it. But I doubt I could live there for good, with the kind of weather you describe being fairly common there.
    The picture with the icycles is my favourite of this lot, and the armchairs in the guest house remind me of my own :-)

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  4. Enraptured by your account. I've never been to Iceland but it's a place I'd love to go to (although driving through s blizzard sounds rather scary!)

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  5. I was in Ireland years ago - and in June, when we had 24hr daylight, sun glittering off the glaciers and warm on the coast, What a fascinating place!

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  6. For some reason I have never got around to visiting Iceland although when I see an Icelandic documentary or now having read your interesting post, then I think that it is a place that I must seriously consider. I like the sound of Guesthouse 1x6 and it's lovely owners.

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  7. That looks very cold.

    Greetings,
    Filip

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  8. I'd love to take a dip in that Blue Lagoon. I've been to Iceland but we never had a chance to explore much.

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  9. Such an amazing country! It intrigues me, as the people must be very hardy indeed to carve a living out of such a place. They would be as much worth getting to know as the sites they have to show.

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  10. What sort of a woman goes to Iceland in winter????
    Such a good story however, the Blue lagoon is tempted even to me.
    I thought of going there once many years ago but the prices put me off. It's a dear place.
    Snow, wind and cold? Just like Edinburgh.

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  11. It's good to see your post and have an insight into the country in Winter. When I get back to the UK on Thursday I shall be getting first hand accounts from friends who have also just been there. In fact it seems to be the place to go at the moment and, amongst my friends, I seem to be the odd one out in not having been.

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  12. What a fascinating post! Iceland is such an incredible place, but also a little intimidating - it seems to have an other-world quality about it. Hiring a guide was definitely a good idea.

    The Blue Lagoon looks really enticing.
    ......and I'm still laughing at the krap" drink....what an unintentionally funny name for "slush".

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  13. I don't do winter so I don't think Iceland will ever make my to visit list.

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  14. What a wonderful and interesting trip!
    I can't imagine what it must feel like to be on such a landscape during a white out. You are a brave soul. The wind in the video sounds so strong!

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  15. What a spectacular, if slightly scary, place to visit Jenny. Your videos give a feeling of the intensity of the weather. In fact it looks quite alien to me, and no wonder films are made in Iceland. Love the little sitting room with a cosy and retro feel. And I know my sons would have loved to try 'Krap'. Wonderful post thank you.

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  16. What a wonderful adventure, Jenny. You travel to such interesting places and your posts take us to countries and sites that most of us will never see. I love reading your blog as I get a glimpse into the world that I can only imagine.

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  17. I found this fascinating! Horizontal snow/sleet gale force winds are not uncommon here in the relatively flat upper midwest but it looks even colder there. Definitely more exotic. Love the pics and videos.
    Couldn't find Trapped on Netflix but I will keep an eye out for it. Sounds like something I'd really like. :)

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  18. Fascinating country...area...bleak, yet with a beauty of its own. Thanks for sharing...a very interesting post and photos. So far removed to what we have here in the Land of Oz. :)

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  19. I have always wanted to visit Iceland and even in winter this trip looks wonderful.
    The Blue lake is so fabulous, glad your were able to stop this time.
    Love the drink "Krap" that almost sounds like some of the items I have found in Japan. I am sending this to Son in Japan.

    cheers, parsnip

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  20. What a great experience, perhaps especially for young A. The Blue Lagoon looks a perfect contrast to the variable weather, and how wise of you to use a guide.

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  21. It was summer when I was there... I don't think I could stand going in wintertime. However, you took some great shots that really did show the raw weather. Brrr!!

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  22. Jenny, I just finished watching 'Trapped', which I found fascinating both from the story line and the scenes of Iceland. Looks like you had a thoroughly interesting time and I look forward to your next Icelandic report when it's summertime.

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  23. I have thought about visiting Iceland ever since I studied Anglo Saxon poems The Wanderer and the Seafarer. Although they aren't based there I have always linked them in my imagination. One problem however is that I really, really feel the cold.. I loved your photos and videos and description, so maybe I will be brave

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  24. Iceland appears to be just as cold as the name sounds!

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  25. Iceland looks like a really, really, really, really, really, REALLY cool place!

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  26. I've a good friend who says Iceland is her favorite spot. Loves it more than anything. Looking at your photos it sounds intriguing but I think not so much my cuppa tea, especially in the winter! It looks terribly forbidding but a remarkable experience, especially your lodgings!

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  27. Long time since I have enjoyed one of your wonderful journeys Jenny. I think Iceland is not for me as terrified of (slipping on) ice and snow.
    Kind regards
    Anna :o]

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  28. Wonderful! It really does have a black-and-white look.

    I bet the free bananas came from the greenhouse that I saw on a TV documentary, which is heated by geothermal energy. Apparently the banana plants take twice as long to grow in Iceland because of the lack of sunshine during the winter, but it's neat that they can still be grown there!

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  29. Florida and Iceland. It is a contrast indeed. Yet, I would choose the latter over the former any time. I'm fed up with warmth and sun. I like me a bit of proper winter with snow! :-)

    Greetings from London.

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  30. I don't know how Iceland looks in summer but I certainly wouldn't want to be there another time of the year. This kind of trips sound exciting though and one more courageous than me could take advantage at maximum!
    Glad you are back!
    Olympia

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  31. Thank you very much indeed for that link. That was most interesting. Have a nice weekend.

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  32. Wow...what an interesting post. Now I want to go to Iceland! I love how you pointed out that you felt like you were in a black-and-white photo. LOL on the name of the slushy drink - perfect name for kids who will probably comment on it endlessly. :-)

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    1. Well it was the best joke of the holiday for young A, I can tell you!
      :) Have to admit it still makes me smile too.

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  33. I've only been in the summer which was just amazing! I am jealous of you being able to watch "Trapped". Most of our entertainment is krap (with the exception of Downton Abbey")over here. I think we would have been better off staying under the rule of the king instead of being so revolting. We whined about taxes then and haven't stopped since.

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    1. Haha! Some things never change! I hope you get to see Trapped. I would guess it might be available on one of the streaming services, but I know it's not so far made it to everywhere in the world. Maybe being in Icelandic language has something to do with it, though the subtitles are really good. (Most Icelanders spoke near perfect English, we found)

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  34. I don’t do cold places any more, hence our move to a sunny country. However, Iceland certainly has appeal.

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  35. I think I must visit the Blue Lagoon! Iceland has always fascinated me - maybe I shall visit one day and your photos certainly capture the spirit of the place. Having just had the misfortune to travel with Easy Jet, Icelandair sounds rather civilised.

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    1. Easyjet is absolute nirvana compared with Ryanair!!!!

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    2. Easyjet is absolute nirvana compared with Ryanair!!!!

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  36. You have such an interesting and exciting life!!! I always enjoy your posts. And to be this completely honest, IL seems a bit warm when compared. I tend to go warmer!

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    1. I agree that Iceland isn't the place to go for warm. Unless you count the water that comes out of the ground!

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    2. I agree that Iceland isn't the place to go for warm. Unless you count the water that comes out of the ground!

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  37. Oh, Jenny! When I've read your words 'timelessly calm as you float effortlessly in the warm, pale blue water, while mist rises around like cloud' I envied you, I'd like to float too in Blue Lagoon...But only in summer, I'm tired of cold wind, snow, warm cloths.

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    1. The nice thing about Blue Lagoon, Nadezda, is that it really is warm and it is like a little piece of warm sky to float in :) It is so great that spring is now on its way!

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  38. Iceland is such a beautiful place! Your post makes me think I would like to go to the place some day. But Looks like it is a big adventure! You are a great traveler, Jenny.

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  39. The Icelandic scenery is amazing, but I'm not keen on a holiday somewhere cold! For me, holidays mean somewhere warm and sunny. I've read several times though that Icelanders are very hospitable and welcoming, which makes a visit quite tempting!

    That cliff edge looks pretty scary. And I wouldn't like to be standing underneath if one of those giant icicles broke loose from the rock!

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  40. Stunning photos. Thanks for the tour!

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  41. I last went abroad in... 1992, I think (Eire). You have stirred the inklings of a desire to travel with this post.

    I know what you mean about the bands and documentaries. I did see a good old "Chronicle" documentary on bbc iPlayer not so long ago though about the Vikings reaching America. I have a soft spot for Bjork, too.

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    1. I wonder if this documentary was one that they were showing at the museum. Rather a lot about Erik the Red? Extremely interesting. And made, I think, by National Geographic.

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  42. I like Iceland. So much SKY. And the beer is really good too. As a fairly adequate brewer, I was quite taken with the beers in MicroBar. Even the standard Kaldi is pretty good. What struck me most was how Icelanders differ from other "Scandinavians". I realise now, after several museum trips there that this is because a sizeable proportion of the original settlers were Irish (65% of the women, apparently). A lovely place from the perspective of the geology (though coming from a sedimentary region, I missed the possibility of stumbling over a fossil. But when you can find solidified ripples in million year old rock, that soon fades as a concern). But few sights rival a plain of volcano-strewn boulders stretching as far as you can see. Your account does justice to what is a surreal and difficult to describe place. I feel I must go back there now for my fix of.. what is it... "space", "Bleakness". You know what I mean.

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    1. Thanks for this comment, nad yes, I know just what you mean. It's why I want to go back too. I am struck by how similar many Icelanders are to each other - couldn't put my finger on exactly how although perhaps it's something to do with squarish heads and faces, paleish colouring.... I shouldn't generalise.

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    2. By the way, I rather miss your blog. Are you able to send me an invitation to it - or don't you write it any more?

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  43. Jenny Iceland is on my to-go list! I loved this post, your narrative and the photos! I've filed all information away. :)

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    1. Hope you make it, Rose. By the way I can't access your blog any more. If you prefer to keep it private that's fine of course, but I have an idea you changed the site a while ago, and if so the new site isn't coming up on my feed.

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  44. wonderful flow...
    as if we were with you!
    nice post gentle man ..
    waiting for more

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  45. Dear Jenny - I found Iceland was one of the most interesting and exciting (thrilling?) travels you did. I’m so interested in Iceland affected by my daughter who is a fan of an Icelandic band. How so powerfully wild especially in winter. I’d like to see what it’s like in spring or summer from your 2017 travel. I can’t imagine hot Iceland from its name even in summer. Blue lagoon is so impressive, kind of spacious hot spring to make you absorbed in rich minerals in such sophisticatedly organized facility, though I hope Iceland won’t be more Americanized.

    Yoko

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    1. Thank you Yoko. I don't think there is any chance that Iceland will become Americanised. It has a very small population with a strong sense of its own national identity. They seem (to my outsider eye) as if they can manage their affairs very cleverly. They have certainly dealt with the effects of the financial crash much better than we have here in the UK, even though it hit their economy particularly hard because they had such a strong financial services sector.
      I am glad you specially liked this post. I found Iceland specially exciting, perhaps because it really is different from most other places, and travelling there can still feel like an adventure.

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