Monday 27 January 2014

In Search of Fine Food

It's been a dodgy time here at Woolf Villas,to tell you the truth, but we have had some light relief.   We had an entertaining visit from a Japanese friend from Tokyo, who re-ignited my desire to go to Japan.   Since the book translation is late, etc. etc., the idea of Japan had slipped from my mind, but talking to Yoshi I suddenly remembered.  So I've added "Find a way to go to Japan" onto my list of things to do. Well, writing it down is a start! 


As part of T's Christmas present I had promised him a fancy lunch at the Tate Britain Restaurant, and so we finally went.   The restaurant is known for its amazing murals, painted in the 1920s by artist Rex Whistler, who was just a 20 year old student when he began them.  He became one a famous book illustrator and muralist, and was sadly killed in battle in 1944. 

Both T and I remembered being taken by our mums for tea in this refreshment room when we were kids. In those days you had jam tarts and rissoles and the place had a slight air of NAAFI Canteen. 

(Photo: National Army Museum)

Eventually it became too out of date, or something, and I think it closed down.  But then they did a fabulous restoration of the Tate and lo, the room is back, in a new role as an expensive restaurant.  

The murals tell of a fanciful expedition through a magical world in search of fine food, by the inhabitants of a castle.  Sick of eating only biscuits made in the factory of the called "Duke of Epicuranea," they set off  in a cart, on horseback and on bicycle, to remote lands.  Here are just a few small bits of the mural. (Forgive the odd perspective, but that's what happens when you try to photograph a really huge art work that spreads all round the room.)  


Here we see a farewell from one of the stay-at-homes and her dog.... and she's looking up the steps to....


....the scene where the food hunting party, dressed in a variety of elegant outfits, set off from their imaginary city.


Across the bridge they go, into lands unknown.


 I love this colouring in this scene of a lady picnicking in her evening dress. So characteristic of the period, with that golden light, those dusky greens and pinks.   


And here are two fairies flying along to see what is happening - look how one is dark and one is light, and the tones of the picture are so cleverly handled

I couldn't even see most of the mural, let alone photograph it, since I was just too polite to lean over the diners at their tables and snap away with my camera. But the staff said I could go back one morning, or late one afternoon, and take as many photos as I wanted. So I will.  I think it's going to be hard to photograph the way that the artwork engulfs the doors and windows of the room, as if they are caves or hollows in which strange creatures live. I haven't been able to find any really good photos - the best ones are here and they're not great.  Really, Whistler's Tate Mural is one of those things you have to visit for yourself. 

Anyway, to finish, here is the party returning home in triumph - I suppose.  The mural has no beginning and no end since it goes completely around the room, but the bouquet and the red carpets do suggest that something important has happened, even though there doesn't actually seem to be anyone in the cart! 



And the food?  It's very good, in the French style, and some of the dishes have unexpected little stories attached to them. My meal included goose breast with hazelnuts, not a dish I had ever tried before.  The menu note about it read:  "In 1940, "They Can't Ration These" was published as a reaction to wartime rationing.  It featured a collection of recipes based around little used herbs, edible weeds, berries, and wild fowl such as goose that were readily available during wartime".     

Somehow I don't think my meal really tasted like wartime rationing, whatever they say. It was far too elegant!  

I then read a book that Rex's younger brother, Lawrence, wrote about him.  Rex sounds charming and light hearted, and you can tell Lawrence idolised him.   In fact, Lawrence became a famous glass engraver and he created a most uncommon glass memorial to Rex. It stands in Salisbury cathedral in Wiltshire.  It's impossible to photograph, and once more, you really need to be there to appreciate it, but this Youtube video gives an idea of what it looks like.  I stared at the real thing for ages. It is quite large, and really quite hypnotic as you walk around the prism and look into it. A good tribute to a man who gave happiness to many, and brightened the life of many a rissole eater.   



48 comments:

  1. This art is fantastic. I intend to Google this fellow to dig up more information on him.

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  2. Next time in London then...this will be a fabulous place to take a good friend who does so much for us.

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  3. It sound like such an interesting place! I wonder how many people become preoccupied with looking at the mural and their food gets cold.

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  4. Before I plunged into my blog list tonight I had a long phone chat with an old friend, at the end of which we realized two of our bucket list items (one each) are very near each other and we must make plans. Japan would not be on a list of mine, but Whistler's murals could be. I must talk to my daughter about that jaunt.

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  5. What great murals. Thanks for this Jenny, I've learned something. I love those dusky greens and pinks.

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  6. What a wonderful post !
    I am so happy to hear that these beautiful murals were saved. What a treat they are and so sad he died so young.
    And YES you must visit Japan !
    I so miss it.

    cheers, parsnip

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  7. Hi Jenny!

    I've been having a dodgy time over on my end as well and apologize for being absent, but am so glad to stop by here again. I definitely must go back to London sometime and see those murals! I love the one of the picnicking lady in her '20s evening gown. And those fairies seem to want to lure us viewers into the tunnel.

    Is the menu pulled from different periods in time, like that wartime dish of yours perhaps accompanied by something Victorian? That would be kind of gastronomic time travel, I suppose.

    I hope you get to go to Japan soon too! Similar to your experience, we've been having some Japanese people over too. Last weekend, we held a kind of musical soirée and we had several Japanese friends (all women, all ballet dancers) somehow all married to Westerners. One of the husbands entertained us with some Fauré and Debussy on the piano. My sister had us jumping around with Khachaturian's "Sabre Dance" sobered up by Debussy afterwards. And then another friend gave us a premiere of her newly-finished musical on the Count of Monte Christo which she had written the libretto to. This is all nothing to do with Japan except that I find the Japanese have a deep appreciation for the cultural arts, whether Asian or Western. It's ingrained in their love of nature, music, haiku and drama ...

    Hope you are well!

    Jenny

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  8. Wonderful murals, with a wonderful story in and about them!
    I can see why you would be staring at the glass prism for ages. The hypnotic quality shows even in the youtube video, so it must be a lot more intense when one stands in front of it for real.

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  9. Those murals look wonderful! I wouldn't want to leave. I am intrigued by that empty cart! And rissoles - now there's something I haven't heard of for a long time x

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  10. I shall have to try the Tate Britain Restaurant next time I'm in London - think my daughter and I will be going in the Spring. I've seen some of Lawrence Whistler's glass engraving in Moreton Church in Dorset where T E Lawrence is buried. They are quite stunning.

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  11. That video is lovely and the music accompanying it equally so. I have heard so much about the restaurant at the Tate Britain recently - I must go there soon. I've never been to Salisbury Cathedral. It just seems a little too far for a road trip from my part of town.

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  12. I am sucker for atmosphere in a restaurant. In fact, the food doesn't have to be all good if it is being served in a place that I enjoy.

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  13. Those murals are amazing. Especially the subtle colouring and the graceful, delicate figures. I must find an excuse to go to the Tate Britain restaurant.

    Maybe the cart is empty because the occupant just slipped off to check her emails :-)

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  14. Amazing murals! I haven't been there. To the gallery, yes, but not the restaurant.

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  15. What an intriguing idea to have interesting stories attached to the restaurant menu. It sounds like a fascinating place to eat.....and those fantastic murals on the walls are beautiful. Very impressive for a twenty-year-old student!

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  16. It must have been wonderful to sit right in the middle of the mural. I'd have been craning my neck to see every little detail. You do go to some delightful places.

    Darla

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  17. What artist brothers they were! Its awesome what they did.
    Great post, Jenny. Thanks for showing us so wonderful restaurant.

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  18. How terrific, and how enjoyable to learn about the murals. I'd love to go to that restaurant someday!

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  19. What a wonderful post, Jenny! Oh, how I would love to see that -- it has officially gone on the "Next Time London" list. The Tate Britain is the original, right -- the one with the Turners? I remember visiting there with my mum in 1973 -- I wanted to see on of my favorites, Turner. I told my mom he painted like I thought, which I think alarmed her somewhat!

    I hope you had a wonderful time with your guest. You will love Japan. If and when you plan to go, please let me know -- we have friends in a couple of spots who are so gracious. I know they would love to meet you!

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  20. What a special treat, for your T and that you shared these lovely paintings with us too!

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  21. Putting Japan on your list is a start, and i know you will get there somehow.

    Those murals are delightful! Someday, i have to get over there to see them. See, it's on my list now!

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  22. This sounds so wonderful. You really do have a gift for sharing a story. Its almost like being there. I've never had goose before. I will just imagine that it taste like chicken.

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  23. What a splendid treat -- wonderful food and sumptuous visual delights!. I saw the prism not so long ago and was fascinated by it, but don't recall the story behind it. So many thanks!

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  24. What great murals. I've never seen them. Thanks for sharing.

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  25. I do hope you go back and photograph the complete mural. It seems amazing and beautiful. What a wonderful excursion. Thanks for sharing!

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  26. Wow! Both of these artistic achievements need to be seen in person. All I can say is wow! I hope you do go back and try to get pictures of all the expansive paintings. Maybe a video!!?? ;)

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  27. I suppose to do up a place like that and make it pay results in an expensive, franchised, restaurant.
    Tends to reduce the numbers I suspect. Use a camcorder to show the walls next time you are in perhaps?

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  28. Oh wow, I love that painting! I would love to go there and be able to take pictures of it sometime. I hope that you get to do that. This reminds me of the art we studied in one of my classes a couple of semesters ago.

    My favorite part is the fairies.

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  29. wow...what a cool place...the murals rather tell a story and it must be pretty cool to look around at while you are eating...i would love to go to asia at some point myself.....i need to find that restaurant in my travels at some point as well...

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  30. Wow! What a talented artist Rex Whistler was! And what a loss to the art world, his tragic, untimely death at such a young age was.

    A truly glamorous restaurant...and one worthy of a repeat visit, I'd imagine. To me he mural is the circle of life...we (along with those depicted in the mural) all end up where we began.

    Thank you, Jenny...

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  31. I was going to mention the Whistler windows but I see that Rowan has beaten me to it. Do you know the church? http://www.moretondorset.co.uk/moreton/st_nicholas_church.php

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  32. I’ve never been to the Tate let alone its restaurant; this is a wonderful mural. The prism is in my last home city of Salisbury, where I lived and worked for the last 22 years before I came to Lanzarote. By co-incidence I have a tiny glass prism with an engraving of Salisbury Cathedral within it! This is obviously not a Whistler but nevertheless precious to me as it was a retirement present from the Diocesan Board of Education. Thank you for highlighting both these pieces of art.

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  33. A lovely place to take a visitor

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  34. Grin. Various omotenashi plots are being hatched as I type this.

    Here's further proof that old age is addling my brain. I confused Rex Whistler with the famous horse painting "Whistlejacket" by George Stubbs. Ah well.

    So. As I was saying, Tokyo, Yamanote Line, sneakers ... (^-^)

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  35. An enlightening and enjoyable post (as always) although I was rather amused by the assertion that "wild fowl such as goose that were readily available during wartime". I suspect that may only have been the case for a very select few in the countryside with access to a shotgun.

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  36. Awesome murals, Jenny! I think the best painting is The lady on a picnic, the colors and her dress is pretty. Perhaps all visitors are watching these murals eat more and more!

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  37. What a wonderful place to have lunch – eat fancy food and look at gorgeous murals! What a combination. A great post

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  38. A visit to Japan would be wonderful. I have always had a wish to go there but sadly it's too late now.

    Duck breast with hazelnuts sounds delicious, and I loved seeing the murals.

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  39. Thanks so much for all the comments. GB, I would be interested in finding a copy of that wartime book. A good idea,to remind people that they didn't necessarily have to eat revolting food, although England was not exactly known for its cuisine in those days. A rather brave idea, shooting a goose! Ru, I think many people get Rex Whistler confused with the guy who painted nocturnes! :)
    Lee, I like the idea of a mural being a circle of life, what a great idea. If I ever have a mural painted, I'll remember that. Or, indeed, if I paint one myself, which I keep meaning to do.

    Marilyn, I am glad that the post stirred some memories and thoughts And yes, to those who have mentioned Moreton, I have been there, and tried so hard to take photos of the windows. It's REALLY hard!!! Perhaps one can do it at night when all is dark ojutside, and rig up a fancy system of lighting to illuminate the designs.....? To get back to Salisbury cathedral, are you SURE it's not a Whistler? It's such a lovely intriguing, subtle form of art, a wonderful way to convey something spiritual, ideally suited to churches.
    Sprinkles, I wonder what art you studied that is similar to Whistler, I would love to see some!
    Now, I'll switch to another comment box and reply some more......

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  40. ........okay here I am again! I hope I've encouraged a few people to go. Adullamite, I think the room was a bit wasted on being a caff, although I suppose you could say that both T and I got interested after being taken in there and fed jam sandwiches. Art shouldn't just be for the rich.
    Jeanie, yes, it is the one with the Turners. The whole place has had a major revamp, and it's wonderful, and there are several rooms of Turners. Thank you for the offer of Japan links, I have started setting wheels in motion now....hencel Rurousha's comment........

    Nick, the cart might have been empty because she nipped out to Sainsburys, I suppose....

    The suggestions of video-ing when I return are good. I have not yet figured out how to get movies form my camera onto Blogger. I don't know if that's Blogger's fault, perish the thought, or if it is just me being my usual untechnical dozo self.
    Jenny, thanks for your long interesting comment as usual. I'm sorry you have been having tough times. Your musical soiree sounds so much fun. Often we forget that the purpose of all the arts comes particularly to life when we participate ourselves. And what fun it can be doing things together - making music, acting, participating.
    I am sorry that I have been absent from blogs for the last week or so. I'll be making my way around and rapping on your virtual doors in the coming few days.


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  41. Wow, interesting murals. I love restaurants with cool art.

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  42. Thank you for a wonderful blog posting. This is going on the top of the Bucket List

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  43. I think the food would be a little too fancy for me but the restaurant sounds great, and the art is beautiful.

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  44. Beautiful mural work! I'd quite happily bring about a migraine with my constant spinning round.....but it'd be worth it!

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  45. I love the Tate Britain! It feels like a second home to me. I hope that think are better at home. Just like you, I would love to go to Japan...how about a joint trip?

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  46. Hello.Jenny.
    They are so great paintings. I too love the mural of the picnicking lady in her pink dress.
    My home town is Tokyo. I travel Tokyo each summer to see my mother,sister and close friends. I am surprised to see Tokyo changing to much bigger and bigger city. Although I sometimes miss nostalgic Tokyo, I think Tokyo is an exciting and beautiful city. I hope you remember to put Kyoto and Nara in your Japan travel list!
    Have a good week.

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  47. I know it sounds crazy, and it is a little off topic, but if you would like to try an authentic German Schwarzbier these days, you must go to Japan. That classic brew, which happens to be my favorite since I first spent time in Germany, is now difficult to find in Germany. However, the Japanese are brewing it regularly, and it is fantastic!

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